TRANSCRIPT

All right. Y'all ready? Nice. Let's do it. All right, we'll get started. So basically we're gonna go through the whole fire truck in here. Everything, pretty much everything you wanna operate. We'll talk about it here and then once we're done, we'll go outside, raise the cab, some stuff flow, some water flow, some foam yesterday, whatever truck we used yesterday.

We need to use a different, we should use a different one today so that we make sure before I leave You're all working. You're supposed to. I, I pipe with broken fire trucks all the time, so, We'll use a different one each day. That way, like I said, make sure your phone systems on all three of them. If you have a question, stop me.

Otherwise, I'll just keep moving through this until we get to a breaking point. All here we go. We're almost done. Vehicle information sticker right there on the engine. Cadillac. The part we care about, the fire stations on the bottom, anything that holds the fluid is listed on the. It tells you how much fluid it holds and then the type of fluid it takes.

So if you're topping off any kind of fluid and you're not sure what goes in that component, this sticker will tell you exactly what to put in there. There's a maximum tire setting on that, but I'll talk about tires tire pressure in just a minute. You got a 500 horsepower Cummins engine with 2021 admissions.

We'll talk about the admissions thing here in a. 65 gallons of fuel, eight gallons of diesel exhaust below top speed, 68 miles an hour. Six speed ounce transmission, 750 gallons of water, 20 gallons of class. Safe volume. Of course, that height and length sticker that's above the driver there, uh, that's when it left the factory.

If you add anything to the top of the aara says it's gonna change the height than apparatus. You got a 1500 gallon per minute single stage waters pump, any single stage pump will take advantage of in income. Impression, you could pump up to one and a half times as ready capacity. It wouldn't be unusual to get 22, 2300 gallons a minute outta these firetrucks.

If you have a water supply that'll supply there, have 1500 gallon perf draft. That's all we get My. And then the three gallon per minute husky foam pump basic warranty information. All right. Drilling holes or welding to the frame components of the chassis not permitted. You tell me if you do so you can void your warranty.

You can mount anything to the nonstructural sheet metal or to the body. But when you do consider decimal metals, basically you have an aluminum body. So if you've got any other metal other than aluminum attached to it, you need some kind of barrier to keep those two metals from reacting to each. Well, if anybody was ever doing welding on the firetruck, you need to get the manual out.

Follow the welding, construction, the engine, the transmission, the pump, everything operates off computers. Now, if they weld on the firetruck without making the proper disconnects or grounding, it will fry those computers. Safety tags and labels are self-explanatory. C in capacities, five. Anywhere you get on and off the apparatus should be two points of contact.

Collect yourself up and. I think yesterday they said, y'all, some of y'all have their air pack brackets like this. I'll explain 'em real quick just so you know. So these are made by Smart Dock and they meet the N F P A nine G collision rule to begin with. You just pull up on that blue part, it pops up, put your bottom in there, and then push it back down.

Or just push back on the bottom and the snatch back in there. If the bottle's real loose in the bracket, that little knob, I don't know if you can see it, the little knob in the back adjusted up and down, right? Normally you don't want that thing all the way down on top of the bottle cause the bottle has to start moving so it'll pop the blue part up when you go to pull it out.

These meet the N F P A nine G collision rule. They you operate off inertia. The easiest way to explain, it's just like your seatbelt. You know when you hit the brake real hard and your seatbelt locks up, when you hit the brake real hard, it's gonna lock down on that bottle. You're not going to get that bottle out while that's happening.

You gotta wait until that inertia's gone on before you pull the bottle. Matter of fact, you could create the inertia that holds it in there. If you grab your seatbelt and just pull it, it comes down. But if you yank on it, it locks up. Same thing if I grab that air pack and I'm going to yank it out, I'm gonna create the nurse that's going to hold it in there.

It's gonna hold it in there, slow, steady pull, and it should come out every time. All right, will chops, anytime you parked or pumping analog brakes would just like the analog brakes in our car. They operate no different. However, the Jacobs brake, anytime you have to adjust your drive due to slippery conditions, they recommend you turn it completely off.

It's got an on and off switch, high, medium, low, but if it's slippery enough, you should turn it off. What happens is when you, when you let off the throttle, that objective brake kicks in and only slows the rear axle, not front and rear axle, but at the same time like your brakes do. So for that reason, it can cause you to go into a spin on a slippery surface just by letting off the throttle trial.

A lot of people don't believe this. I know of a ladder truck that was rolled over a couple of years ago and I'm not gonna say who. No, it was rolled over a couple years ago and a big city in Texas and uh, it was raining. He was going straight line, let off the thro back end, come around cause he had Jacob going with the street headed current.

We the back tire hit the curb and put the ladder truck over so they can't add it. Alright. Primary inspection is done before you got it. However, your daily flood checks, you don't have to necessarily raise the cab to check negative floods. If I open that little door right there, there's my oil and transmission fluid.

Now they did on this one move the power steer fluid a little further up, so I don't know that you're going to get to the power steering fluid through. Couple on the power sterile foot canister. The lid is the pit stick, but they also put a sightglass on there now that if you can see the sight glass through the hole, if the side glass is full, then you've got plenty.

Uh, Power steering fluid. Really the only thing, normally you can't check without raising the cabs. The radiator pretty much have to raise the cab to check the radiator. You can see the overflow from right there too. What? The overflow of the radiator? Yeah, the canister right there. Yeah, I'm not talking about that.

So order to check the radiator. Normally you have to raise the cab. A couple things about the radiator. You're going to get a low cooling lamp on these firetrucks. It's just a matter of time. On the back of the radiator, there's a side glass that you could just look and see if you have coolant in your radiator.

You can have a low cooling lamp and still have a full sight glass because it doesn't take much of a drop in cooling for that lamp to come on cuz the sensors were at the top of the radiator. So low cooling lamp, full sight glass is not like you're critically low. You still might have to add some to get the lamp to go on the fluid that's in there.

Now traditionally you might have a green or orange. Radiator fluid. This one's yellow or gold. It's an O A T Extended live fluid. The most important thing about that fluid is you can't add anything to it other than that fluid itself. If you start getting a little cooling lamp, start adding water to get the lamp go away, you're going to create a problem.

If you add another type of fluid to that one, you're going to create a prop. You can only put that coolant and. In the little reservoir that you were just talking about, traditionally it had a minimal and maximum line on it, right? And we kept fluid in it. There's no fluid required in that jug whatsoever.

Matter of fact, it might even say, do not fill on there. That's an ex, uh, more of a Burke tank or expansion tank. So when it gets hot, it has somewhere for that. When it expands the flood. Matter of fact, there's probably none in them right now. So it doesn't suck any of out, it's not circulating any of it? No.

I think it's only when it gets hot will that fluid go to that jug. Okay. Yeah. So you're not required to have any fluid in the jug on the reservoir anymore. All right. They recommend that once you're loaded all, all your equipment full of water, ready to go in service, that you weigh the front rear axle.

Wanted to make sure it conforms the actual break ratings, which it should because it is the engineer designed to hold the amount of water you have and the type of gear we're put on them. But the other reason would be to determine the correct tire. In the manual, there's tire inflation charts that look like this.

This is a Michelin chart. Goodyear has their own charts. I think you have Goodyear tires, but let's say you had 12 R 22 s on the front, I'd find the weight that's closest to the weight of my axle, and that bold number at the top of the column would be the ball. Ultimate, ultimate tire pressure for that axle.

That's what's supposed to give you your best drivability. Our shop tells me that they get trucks in, you know, when they get complaints of. Firetruck's not holding the road the majority of the time. It's cause of incorrect tire pressure. So if you have one not holding the road, you might end up having to go through this to get it to correct tire pressure.

All right. CAD controls start. We're always gonna start it by turning on the battery switch and then the ignition switch. Before hitting the start button, it needs to go through a self-check. If you're watching the dashboards, you'll see needles go up and come down. Last, go on and go back off. If you hit this.

The start button before it finishes a self check. A lot of times you're gonna end up with warning lamps on the dash. It could be any of the warning lamps. Stop engine, lamp, brake lamp, whatever. If you start it up and you have lamps on the dash, I would shut it down, restart it. Make sure it goes to the full self check before hitting the start button if your lamps go away.

Alls it means is you hit the star button two side too soon to time before the lamps don't go away. You may have a legitimate. Basically, if you interrupt the self check by hitting the star button, then lapses speed off. Killing it. We always kill it with the ignition switch. Never kill it with the battery switch.

If you kill it with the battery switch, you can damage an electric electrical system. It's to the point and needs to completely die before you turn your battery switch off. Here's a look at the dashboard. It's got all the same stuff in your firetrucks have right now, except for we do have a diesel exhaust flood gauge there.

Other than that, it's the same thing with dental firetrucks wherever up at the top where our lamps come on. There's three lamps that have to do with emissions. The upside down triangle warning light, the diesel particulate filter lamp, and the high exhaust temperature lamp. In 2007, the federal governor started requiring emission controls on diesel engine.

So the simple explanation is they added a diesel particulate filter in the exhaust. If you look underneath and exhaust looks like a big oblong beer keg in the exhaust system. All the unburned fuel and carbon particles that used to go through the exhaust to the atmosphere are now trapped in that filter.

Once that filter gets full, the truck gets to go through a regeneration process to clean it up. That regeneration process happens in two ways. Automatic reach or parked region. Automatic regions happen while you're driving it. This say you're responding to a run and your filter's full. Once you meet engine speed, engine load and engine temperature, the engine criteria needed for it to reach in the computer can put it into an automatic region.

Basically, it starts dosing a little diesel fuel into that filter, gets real hot and burns the stuff off. You don't even know what's happening. There's no change in drivability, there's no lamp that comes on. Tells you it's reaching and the only way we know it's reaching, and as we use the. Is we never see a filter lamp, but what happens a lot of times in city departments, which may apply here is this, you can make 10 or 15 runs a day.

You can meet engine speed, engine load, and engine temperature on all those runs. But what we don't meet is the timeframe needed for it to go through a region. Because you're just up and down in your territory. Sale on EMS runs all day, so when that happens, you'll end up with a filter lamp. You get that filter lamp, it's telling you the firetruck needs to be regent.

You have the option of doing two things. You can take it out on a highway and run about 15 miles out and back of non-stop driving. When I say non-stop driving, you have to maintain a speed of 30 miles an hour or more for 15 miles non-stop and come back and it would go through an automatic. Or you pull it outside in front of your fire station and do a park region, which is what you're going to end up doing.

The high exhaust tenture lamp come along at the same time, but it doesn't always have something to do with a region. You're in a park region, your exhaust temperature is gonna reach about 1500 to 1700 degrees. So you'll see the high Exels temperature lamp, but you may also see this lamp when you're out on the.

Let say you are making some runs and your exhaust temperatures are starting to heat up. You may be on the way back to the station from a run, pull up to a red light or stop sign, or even when you get back to the station, see a light pop up. It's a good chance that your high exhaust temperature lamp, that lamp is going to come on anytime your apparatus is below five miles an hour and your exhaust temperature's up above 700 degrees.

That's why I'd see it when I pull up to a red light or stop sign. Once you exceed five miles an hour, it will go back off. So because they're familiar looking lamps, just remember high exhaust temperature lamp goes on and off with speed. Once you exceed five miles an hour, it'll go out. Alls that lamp is telling you is you have extremely high exhaust temperatures.

Don't get too close up to something with your exhaust pipe cause it can actually damage something. The filter lamp. Once it comes on, it's gonna stay on until we take care of the problem. Now, there's two switches that have to do with rein below. Your battery switch is a row of four switches. The second one from the left says DPF regen.

That's the switch you're going to use to put it into a parked. That's a momentary style switch, meaning if you push down and let up, it comes right back up like spring. So actually you're gonna hold it down for several seconds for it to go into a region. The one on the far right says re inhibit. That's an on and off switch.

If you turn that switch on, it prevents the apparatus from doing automatic regions. You want it to do automatic regions. I can't think of a reason really for you to ever turn your reach in and hit the switch on if someone turns the switch on the lamp and the switch will be lit. The orange upside down triangle, one line on the dash can come on and your command zone information center is going to tell you that your rein inhibit switch is activated.

If you see that, turn it off. So that'll reach you in while you're using the truck. I'm fixing to walk you through a parked rein. Just keep in mind that that's the, the switch on the left is the one you're going to use to go put yours in the parked region, cuz it's a little different than the switch in my example here.

All right. You never want to do one inside the fire station. Cause like I said, your exhaust temperature's gonna reach about 15 to 1700 degrees. I've already explained this page how it happens in automatic mode or park mode. You get a lamp that's telling you the firetruck needs to be. Either take it for a long ride or pull it outside to do a parked engine.

If you ignore the lamp and continue to use the truck, eventually it's gonna start blinking. That means it's gone into stage two before us. It's our second morning saying we need to put it into a re. We'll continue to go without putting it in a regen. Eventually you'll get a check engine lamp with a blinking field lamp.

This is the last opportunity for you to put it into a re. You let it go beyond this is go require mechanic, come out with a computer to get it to regen. The bottom line says the engine will not derate or shut down in this situation. That is true with these fire. It's not true with all firetrucks that have this up until 2016, let's say you had a blinking filter lamp and you were responded to a run and your check engine lamp, come on, it derated those engines.

They went in the limp mode. You had to pull over right then and do a park three engine to get your engine power back. In 2016, the EPA exempted fire apparatus from derating due to emissions. This one's not going to derate. When you get to this point, it's gonna let you keep going in full power. Here's the problem I see today, as opposed to before.

What that lamp set up is telling me is telling my, my filter's full. They call it soot, and it needs to be cleaned out. Before, when they de-rated, they forced you to clean out the filter today. There's nothing forcing you. It's gonna let you keep going at full power. Once that filter's full, it creates a back pressure that will damage the engine.

So we're more likely to damage our engines today than before because it lets us keep going at full power with a stu with a full filter. This is too easy to take care of, let it get to this point. This is a matter of holding a button down to clean this filter.

And if you did nothing at all, eventually you'll get a stop engine lamp. Anytime we get a stop engine lamp, we need to shut it down

to initiate the parked, pull it outside in the open. Takes about 30 to 40 minutes to go through a parked. I showed you where your switch is. It's a little different from this one. I'm gonna pass this up and tell you what it says. That says pull your firetruck outside and set the brake. If you do that, you just met the stuff I passed up.

Park and brake set neutral low aisle. Right? The only thing this doesn't tell you is this, say this morning, you come to work, you're checking out your apparatus and you see the filter lamp is on and it needs to be reach in. So you pull it outside to do the, if you don't let the engine reach normal operating temperature before you try to put it into a region, it's not gonna go into a.

Because the engine temperature has everything to do with cleaning that filter out. So you need to let it warm up before you try to put it into a region. So fish warmed up and I'll pull it outside and set the brake. I'm gonna hold down my DPF region switch for about five seconds. Hold it down until the filter lamp goes off.

Once the filter lamp goes off, let off the switch, the engine RPMs are gonna come up on their own until about 1200 r. And the engine's gonna sound like it's running kinda rough. It sounds like it's missing because it puts the engine under a heavy load. Once the exhaust temperatures come up, your high exhaust temperature lamp will come on.

Just let it sit there and do its thing. Once it's done, it shuts itself back down to low ile. That's how we know it's finished. Reg it. The high exhaust temperature lamp won't necessarily go off until the exhaust temperatures drop back down. If you catch a run. During a parked region, all you do is hold down that same switch you started it with, hold that switch down until it goes back to low island that cancels the parked region.

You go make your run. Two things can happen on that run. One, it can finish up automatically on its own. And when you get back to the station, if you don't have a filter lamp anymore, then you don't worry about it. Or two, if the filter comes back on to start the park region. As a matter of fact, you cannot put it into a park region unless the filter lamp is illuminated.

If it's not on, you can hold down that button all you want. Nothing's going to happen. You had to have the lamp in order to put it into a park region. If you were to, uh, cancel a park region to make a run, once you exceed five miles an hour, your high exhaust temperature lamp would go off. So that's what happened in 2007.

In 2010. They added diesel exhaust fluid. It's the exact same process they set for now. It doses this diesel exhaust fluid into the exhaust before they clean the air. Couple important things about diesel exhaust fluid. One, it's costing, so if you get it on your firetruck while refilling the tank, you want to wash it off right away.

What was always important about diesels off wood, which does not apply to these three trucks is. Prior to 2016 when you started running low on diesel exhaust fluid, it started derating your engine. The first D rate would be a 5% D rate, and the second D rate was a 25% percent D rate. You had no engine power until you refilled the tank.

If you were to run out diesel exhaust fluid on the incident today, your engine should not derate. It's gonna let you keep going at full power. However, once you get back to the station and you kill battery and ig. If that tank is empty, it will restart the derated mode. The only difference is it's not gonna derate as it's running out like it did before.

Federal law requires it to be in there. The mechanics tell me, you can actually cause engine damage if it's not in there. Cause now everything's designed to run with that. If you keep that tank, half, four more, it doesn't matter if you fall under the exemption or not, you have plenty of diesel exhaust. But to make any incident, you're going.

One more thing before we move on. You should always fill that tank up with the engine shut off. When you start the engine, it loads the system up with d e f ready to inject it into the exhaust. When you kill the engine, it purs that system and sends that fluid back to the tank. So obviously if you fill up the tank with the engine running and then shut it off, you may overfill this system.

All right on the left hand side, steering wheel, your hazard light switch, satellites, panel lights, wire control, blinker, tilt. Right there. Where the panel light controls are is a little button that says e m. That's an emergency master switch for your warning lights, just like the one you have overhead, there's actually three places on this firer.

You could turn emergency lights on and off right there, the one overhead. And when I go through the command zone with the outside, I'll show you a spot in there where you can turn the lights on and off. That's nothing more than a convenience switch to open the door, turn the emergency lights on and off without having to get up and down in.

On the right hand side, the steering wheel is your high I switch. We'll talk about that a little bit later. All right. Transmission control, probably just like you have now. Just remember, Allison Transmissions are programmable. They put an aggressive program of firetrucks. You'll find a lot of times if you go straight from drive to reverse or straight from reverse to drive, you feel a hard hit on the trans.

We're supposed to be hitting neutral in between every time. It should always be reversed just to drive, drive, neutral, reverse, which is exactly what happens in our cars and trucks. When we go, we always go through neutral, the mo button. Some of you might have used the motor button to go into higher gears on our older fire trucks.

This one's, uh, is a program to go through all the gears on its own, so you shouldn't have to hit the mode button to go into your higher gears. The arrow up and down. One thing you can use those for is to check your transmission fluid. If your transmission's at normal operating temperature, you're in low idle and neutral.

On a level surface, I hit both those arrows at the same time. In that window, it'll tell me the status of my transmission fluid. If it's a normal level, it just says normal level. But if it's low, it'll tell you whether it's a pine low, whether it's a core load, whether it's two quart low, and if there's too much in there, they'll tell you how much too much is.

Then when you see that, if you hit it again, it'll tell you how much life is left on the transmission fluid. Hit it again. It'll do a transmission filter check. Hit it one more time. It'll do a trans transmission health check. And then the last time it'll, if your transmission is throwing any codes, it'll tell you what codes are being thrown.

So when we're in neutral, we've got two ends in that window. If you see a little wrench pop up between them two ends, it's telling you something wrong with the transmission. So if you just do what I said and, and the oil life is at zero, that's why you're getting the wrench. It's just saying the oil needs to be changed, but the oil life is not at zero.

Keep going till you get to the code. You gotta be thrown a code if you have a wrench. If it's not your whole life. So what did you say you had to be in to be able to hit the two arrows and we'll take sleep. Low idle, neutral, neutral level, level cab. Uh, if you're in high idle, it'll tell you too many engine RPMs if you just come out the drive.

There's a countdown. It'll count down before it give you the results, cuz it waits till the old of seven. Okay? You'll see that as you're checking this one. All right, air conditioner, heater, defrost. So begin with, that's the only one on the left is just pan control. The one in the middle. If you hit that snowflake, that turns your AC compressor on.

And then your temperature controlled by turning it on. The one on the right, if you hit the, is your, uh, defroster. If you hit the button on the end of the, on the end of the knob. And then the knob itself is for where's it directs the air front and rear. If you have it in the middle, you get the same air front back, right?

It's all, but I can move. If I'm the captain, I can move it all the way to the front and, uh, not give them the back.

That would never happen. Does it slow the speed down? If I move it in the front, it was moving it back. It gives you more in the front cause the full blower blowing in the front when it's all in the front. If or if you moving it all the back and blow the slow blows in the back, you not getting anything in front.

All your vehicle down and recorder records the last 100 hours of engine running time. Man, by. Court records, vehicle speed, acceleration, deceleration, engine speed, thro position, any analog brake events that took place in the last $100. Seatbelt occupied status, any warning lights to come on the last $100.

We don't have that right. It's little time and dates, black box, time and dates. Each event, that information's always on there. Uh, all we gotta do is hook. Laptop with the right software and pull it off at the end time. I have quick story on this. If we had an engine and a ladder truck collided at an intersection going to a box of arm, and when they hit the ladder, truck rolled over and killed the lady that was on the sidewalk over my seat.

They both had vehicles down recorders. Within a couple hours, they knew how fast they were going, how long it took 'em to stop, who was in a seatbelt who wasn't in a seatbelt. Well, you could break all the rules and beg for forgiveness with your fire chief, but when you start killing people, the lawyers get ahold of this information and it makes you as a driver even more responsible.

Especially if you're not following your policies and procedures alarm. Where were they headed? They, they were headed to a box of our, a structure fire. Oh gosh. So we know, pretty generally know when we, who we're gonna meet at the intersection or we should. Right. But Engine seven was at the grocery store when they come in.

And so they were coming from a completely different direction than they normally would. And, and that's whether, I mean, there's no doubt that they were. Fast. Somebody didn't yell to the insurance.

All right. Your pump shift just like you have now. Just remember, this is an air activated switch. It has to have at least a P S I air pressure before you can switch between road and pump. You come to a stop set your brake going and neutral. When you're switching from road to pump. You should pause at neutral for a second and then go the pump here.

Go ahead bud. So we've our old engine 71 right now. We've been having a lot of issues with the pump. And the pierce guy came up and said, we don't stop in the middle anymore. You should go straight down. You can do what you want. Yeah. Uh, this, this right here, straight from Pearson, what it says right here.

Okay. But a lot of people are, it ain't gonna hurt if you go straight into punk area. It's gonna go up the pump gear. Right. Cause they, they recommended you stop at neutral. Okay? But everybody's got their own opinion. I'm just telling what Pierce says. There's no doubt if you go straight from pumper, I mean road to pumper's, gonna go to pump gear.

Yeah. So once you're go into pump gear, you get the pumping gauge lamp. Once you go the drive on your transmission, you get there, okay to pump lamp. If you don't get both those lamps, look at your speed after. If you speed after went to 16 miles an hour, you're pumping gauge, or you're ptl. These lamps will burn out like any lamp on this firetruck.

If for some reason you don't have enough air pressure or it won't go into pump gear using your pump switch, you got the manual pump shift on the pump panel. What you would do is put your transmission in neutral, your pump shifter in neutral. Go to the pump panel, grab the handle, pull to engage the pump or the pto, come back, drop your switch, your pump.

Shift into, pump your trans transmission into drive, and you just did what the air wasn't doing for you, which is put the PTO or the pumping gear, take it out, palm gear. Go to aisle, go to neutral. Let your speed on go. Zero. Switch it back to. Mirror controls right on left side of mirrors on the left side of your steering wheel.

Below your battery switch, you have your flood scene lights on that air horn. If it's on the center of your stu, uh, should be an air horn. If it's off, it's a car horn and then your differential lock locks you back, axle into a positive track. So if I, if you lock the differential, it, both wheels will spin at the same rpm.

With that, with it off, it's like a limited slip. You have only one side pull. So it's not a, I mean it's just a hard lock Once. It's a hard lock, it's on. Okay. So you don't want your differential. And you guys are probably more familiar with these cuz you use 'em more up here, but Absolutely. Do not want it on, on hard guy.

Surface it. Yeah. Uh, slippery surfaces. Were get we. The actual gift when, like in turns and stuff for your traction. But if it's, if you're on a hot hard drive surface, this should never be turned on.

All right, on your CZ three. I'm gonna talk a little bit about it in here, and then we'll go outside. We'll just get around it and I'll go through it. All right. Begin with, this is touchscreen or touch button, however you want to do it, right? To get to the home screen, I can hit that button or hit that right there.

And then it'll go to, I'll call this the home screen. You'll see it called the transit screen. Begin with. You're not gonna see this on yours. It's a collision of. Avoidance system. Nobody buys that. That's a higher pressure monitoring system that we don't see very often either. So I don't think you have that.

And then this is a mapping system that you're not going to have on yours cuz nobody buys that here. They sell this thing like cable TV and what package you bought, right? Yeah. So do away with those home screen. Menu. Screen. I'm gonna cover the menu. They call this the fire ground screen. If I hit that flame or hit that button, if those board gauges up here, NFPA requires your engine information to be on the pump panel.

Yours is already on the pump panel with your pressure governor. As you'll see some people put these on their pump panel, they hit that flame, and that way they got the engine information on the part down. This still works, but it's the same page as you're looking at on your dashboard. It just duplicates 'em right next to it.

Just gonna put it, uh, what engine temperature, oil pressure, voltage and transmission temperature. Gauges, of course, this is your fuel and d e f gauges, seatbelt status indicator. If you hit the flame that goes away and it tells you whether your pumps and gage or not. Right. Some pump information. Uh, this is the notification center.

Hopefully it's blank most of the time, but if a message pops up like you see here, if it's a white background, early information stuff, just warning, yellow background warning. Red background needs to be addressed immediately. Let's say a code come up in red. If I touch inside of this rectangle, it takes me to a false page.

I get to that same false page by going through the menu. However you want to get there. Maybe it'll tell you a little bit about what that code is pertaining to. This is a blue tab. If I put my finger on it, swipe across. Virtual switches come up and they'll say Panel one, panel two, panel three, and panel four.

You have nothing on panel three and four. Panel one is gonna be the Mercy Master switch and all your warning lights. Panel two is gonna be all your scene lights and your loading. It just duplicates the hard switches you already have. Of course, if you go in reverse, it's your rear view camera screen, and I'm gonna cover the menu outside.

But one other thing before you know, when you release the parking and brake and the Do Not Move truck lamp comes on bef. We used to just have to run around, try to figure out what, what's causing it. Now, this is going to pop up and narrow it down for you. If it's a crew cab door, it tells you which one. If it's a compartment door, it just tells you what side of the truck it's on.

If it's something on top of the firetruck, it'll flip it upside your, extend the gun, you gotta extend the gun on that dead gun. In fact, y'all haven't messed with it. Basically, unclip it, pull it up, and it locks into place and put the gun up above the truck. When you're done, you unlock it and push it back down.

The bad not bad thing, those things will stop and, and even, but it didn't clip into back into place. It's going to stop. You think it's all the way down and it's not. Those two magnets are not going to touch and you're gonna get the do not move truck lamp because it didn't snap back down. So make sure it snaps all the way back down to where those back magnets touch again so that that lamp don't come on.

And, uh, if it's on the other side of the firetruck, it flips it around, shows y'all side of the firetruck. Like I said, the rest of it will go over outside. All right, below that inch brake going off high, medium low, we'll talk about that Mirror heat, right left side mirrors the tire chains. You know more about tire chains and no, we, I've never seen a set of tire chains from where I'm from, but what I do know about 'em, I'm not supposed to engage in what, over 25 miles an hour.

Sir, that's usually the general rule with the tire chains. Can we get, same with the differential lock? It's recommended that you engage it at O. You do have,

can you disengage the D lock while you're traveling or she, I think you're supposed to come back to a stop to disengage also. Okay. You can't go wrongs. Yeah. Up above, starting on the far left, emergency master switch all your warning lights. To the right of that, you got a high bean flash, which in your load manager, that load manager needs to be on at all times.

It monitors the electrical load of the apparatus. If you have a drop in power for whatever reason, the load manager is gonna start shutting down or shedding non-essential electric items in order to maintain enough power for you. Engine. The first thing is shuts off air conditioner, heater, and default.

And from there other non-essential electrical stuff that find your air conditioner. Sometimes working, sometimes not. It could be the load manager shutting it down due to a period of low power. You may wanna go get your batteries and alternator. Actually in the command zone when we go through there, if your air condition is not coming on, there's a page.

We could go and look and see if the load manager's shut something off or not. I'll show you that when we'll go outside. So that should always on. Is there reason there's a switch? There's no reason. Turn it off. What happens a lot of times, here's what happens is it's not as bad day cause all your lights are l e d lights and they don't draw as much emphasis as the whole hoing lights.

So you, when everything was hoing, right, you would be on scene with all your mercy lights on, and that would draw so much power that it caused the load manager to shut your air condition off, right? Because you wasn't in high and you wasn't producing enough power for it. So shut off your air condition. So you got back in the truck and the air condition not working.

You got it? Turn it off. So the air conditioner come back on, the air conditioner come back on, but you still lower power. It's not got the right average for that, right? And so, uh, if you leave it on, once you take off, it builds a power back up. The air conditioner come back on.

All right. To the right of that, your traffic indicator light and the. Siren controls to the right of that. Do not move apparatus, lamp, like I said, you release that. I mean, if you release the breaking then comes on crew cab door compartment. Door deck guy is left up. Right behind that is this H A S H A A S.

Alert, hostile alert. These are pretty. But basically when you turn your emergency master switch on, this thing's going to start em admitting a signal. Everybody who has navigation in their cars, as you're coming up, you're supposed to appear on their navigation line. There's an emergency apparatus coming up behind, or.

If they're approaching you on the side of the road, you should pop up on their screen. Is that only will be have your emergency master on? Yes. So with that being said, and this is new, not everybody's navigation system or supporting this technology. They tell me Google Maps is not yet signed. No. With it I do.

I know if you have ways, was it Waves Ways leases? It, it worked for that. Cause we, we tried it with somebody's phone. Uh, like on my navigations, I mean, when I turn on the map on my truck, I don't know if you'll show up or not. Cause I have no subscriptions to anything. So, uh, but I know a lot of people hook ways up to their navigation because they like, The people tell 'em about where the cops are and all that stuff.

So you'll definitely show up on that. So this is new. I think it's still gotta, you know, get better with, uh, more companies signing on with this. So putting the technology in their navigation systems, but that's what it is. And it's on your fire truck. Over on the officer side. Looks like you got a good time.

Radio right there. Speed, audio readout and scene like, uh, scene light switches and uh, siren break. That's her real light radio. What's that? You can listen to that radio. It's a weather radio. Oh, it has

all weather radio. You can't

horn.

Nice distract key door locks just means you can be locked out. It comes with extra keys. They recommend that you put one in a compartment in case locked button. The emergency button push. No. Cause they're not electric door locks. Ah, you had electric door locked. Yes, but they don't. But I would say the same key will fit all three.

Fire trucks is an enforcer. Cab key is for any enforcer. But an ipel key will not fit on the enforcer. So that same key will fit any three of the fire trucks. So if you get locked out and you don't have a key call, your buddies over there embarra, I'll probably be the first one.

So what you do when you have like a meeting over here and everybody comes over here and lock everybody's door in case a box of alarm comes in, then you're first out, they're all.

All right. That's pretty much everything inside after You could edit on that video there Chief. So pumped. All right. I'll start with the pressure. Looks like you got a fierce pressure Governor, you have an FRC pressure Governor with Pearson's name please. Who basically, two companies make pressure governors.

You buy a fire research corporation, which is FRC or Class One, no matter what it looks like or whose name is on it. One of those two companies made that pressure Governor. They basically all operate the same, but there are some differences between Old FRCs and new FRCs and and an FRC class. I'm gonna explain how this one works out.

Might be different from some other ones. The top portion of that is engine information only. That really has nothing to do with pumping. That's the same thing that's on your dashboard. Check engine lamps, stop engine lamp, RPMs, oil pressure engine temperature, transmission, temperature, voltage. As long as everything's in the normal operating range, you'll have green l e d lights in.

In there. If it gets outside of it, normal operating range, you're going turn from green to red and a buzzer goes off. When that buzzer goes off, you can hit that silence button. It will do away with the noise, but not the problem. Need to figure out what your problem is to help you figure out the problem.

If I start hitting that orange menu button and that lower l e d screen, it'll tell me what my actual engine temperature is. I just scroll through Engine temperature, oil pressure. Voltage battery, I mean voltage, transmission, temperature, engine hours, pump hours, discharge pressure. You just keep hitting that orange menu button.

It'll tell you actual numbers rather than l e d lights. You can do that at any time. You can be in the middle of a multiple or fire pumping every discharge on this fire truck. If you wanna know what your engine temperature is, you hit that orange button and it'll tell you what. It's so, like I said, you can do it at any time.

Has no effect on the pump. All right. The bottom part's. The part we use the pump. We put the pumping gear. Once we get back here, we should have a green throt already GL right there, and that one spot if that lamp is not on, that pump didn't go in gear. This one defaults to pressure mode. A lot of pressure governors, you have to choose your motors time, your pump, but this one's going default to pressure mode when the pump government goes into gear.

You have two modes we could pop in pressure and rpm. I'm gonna talk about those in just a second. Your preset takes you to a preset pressure. If I'm in pressure mode and I hit preset right now from the factory, it takes me straight to 125 psi. Of course you could go up from there or down from there, or if you're at one 60, you want to be back at 125.

Just anytime you hit the preset, it's always gonna go back to that pressure. Of course, you got your throttle and then the idle button in the middle of it. When our older firetruck that were cable driven, they had a throttle knob like that. They had a red button in the middle too, and they always told us, don't ever hit that button unless you have to.

If you hit this aisle button, it just takes the engine. Sweet. So normally I would say, it doesn't hurt me, I, but you got one or two hand lines on the ground at a house fire and you're at 140, 160 psi and you hit ile. It's not gonna hurt a thing. But if you're flowing your deck gun and a ground monitor and a couple of hand lines, you're at 160 psi and you hit I, it's gonna go from where you're at to idle real fast.

It'll be just like slamming a water valve shut. It is going to cause a water hammer inside that pop. So just remember this start and stop large flows by turning the kn anything more than a couple hand lines on the ground. I would start and stop the flow by turning the knob pressure mode, our PM mode.

Anybody want to tell me the difference in notice

one, monitor pressure and adjust the What's that series parallel. He gimme an answer I was looking for. Okay, go ahead. He's. You're right, you are. What'd he say? Really? I, I added volume. RPM was volume. And the reason I say that, cause I get that a lot because mostly from the older guys who worked on two stage pumps, you know.

And then from there we went to single stage pumps and started with these right here you have a single stage pump that pumps pressure from, you get from it, you get your volume. You'll pump the exact same order in RPL mode as you do in impress. So there's two ways to look at it. In pressure mode, this thing's gonna maintain a constant discharge pressure, and you'll end up with a moving or fluctuating engine or p.

An RPM mode is gonna maintain a constant engine rpm and you end up with a movement or fluctuating pressure as nozzles open and close. Right? I'd like to explain it as pressure mode is being automatic mode. RPM mode is being manual mode. When in pressure mode, your pressure governor communicates with your engine through a trans.

When in RPM mode, there is no transducer, you're going to communicate with your engine. So let's take a simple scenario. For example, let's say I set this at a hundred PSI pressure mode and I'm on tank water. I'm gonna be somewhere around 1200 RPMs and I'll pull that first hand line off and I'll charge that hand line, it's a hundred psi and whatever gallon permit they give them, right next guy comes along, pulls the second line.

Soon as you open that discharge, that transducer is gonna read the drop of pressure in the pump, increase the engine RPMs, give me back to my a hundred psi, or whatever pressure you have it set at. So no matter how many discharges you open, the same thing happens over and over. And it will maintain the discharge pressure you set it at.

As long as your water supply will supply all those discharges. If somebody was to close a nozzle, there would be an increase in impression. The Transer reads that increase in pressure drops the engine RPM to gimme back to my hundred psi. If I go from tank water to hydro water, a single stage pump takes advantage of income pressure.

So on tank water a hundred psi, I'm at 1200 RPMs and I introduce a 60 PSI hydrant pressure. So says that pressure comes in the transducer rates, that income of pressure, and you see a large drop in engine RPMs in order to give me back to my a hundred psi. All that happens automatic. You take the same scenario on RPM mode, I can charge that first line with a hundred PSI on RPM mode just like I did in pressure mode.

Exact same pressure, exact same gallon permit, actually the exact same engine rpm. However, when I charge the second line, what's gonna happen to my pressure go drop. So I'm gonna have to increase the RPM to get back to where I. So all the adjustments it's making for you automatically in pressure mode. You have to make every one of those adjustments yourself.

An RPM mode or manual mode. Now with that being said, if you operate your pump and RPM mode, you operate in your pump without any protection. There is no protection to the pump and RPM mode. There isn't pressure mode that transducers what took place in those manual relief valves we used to have on our firetruck that we were supposed to set.

Every time we pump, it reacts to spikes and drops some. Prevents water hammers from happening in RPM mode. You have no transfusion, so you have no relief valve and you don't know when to react to a spike dropping pressure. So don't protection the pump in RPM mode. There is no pressure mode. The protection of the pump and pressure mode is designed to protect the pump, not the firefighter.

If you allow your pump to cavitate while you're in pressure mode, it's gonna send your engine to idle to protect the pump. If you got guys inside of a fire and your engine goes to idle, what happens to their hand lines? Stop, lose, are pressure, right? You lose your ability to defend. Probably four or five common reasons you're gonna cavitate your pump on a fire ground.

One, if you're on tank water and you're not, and it runs out and you're not there to shut it down, it's gonna shut the itself down. Second common reason, if you're trying to pump more water out than you have coming in, you're gonna cavitate the pump. It's gonna sit in your engine. The. Next common reason.

Every fire starts on tank water and builds from there. Then somebody lays the supply line to you, right? You hook that supply line into your intake. You open that intake without bleeding the air that holds first. When that air hits the pump, it's gonna ate you pumps in your engine to idle. And the last common reason is people overuse their tank field ERT valve.

We'll get to that valve. I'll show you how that can easily cavitate your pump. Let's go back to. Scenario on tank water. I'm on tank water at a hundred psi, 1200 RPMs. We're fighting fire. Everything's rock along fine until I start running outta water. When I start running outta water, the water's gonna start slowing down, going to the pump cause it's running out.

What do you think's gonna happen to your engine RPMs if you impression mode as you're running outta walker? No, I You'll go up. Just remember this in impression mode. All this thing wants to do is maintain the pressure you set it at. So is that as you running outta the water RPMs start going up, trying to maintain the pressure.

Same thing happens if you're pumping more out than you have coming in. Once that starts happening, you're gonna start getting some warnings right there in that little l e d window on the bottom. First thing is gonna flash in the operator. If you see it flashing the operator, there's a problem. Water supplies are almost always gonna be your problem.

Next thing you'll see it flashing is RPM limit. What that is is this, as RPMs start going up and once you hit 200 RPMs in, there hasn't been an increase in pressure. You're calf taking this, sends your engine to it, so it's flashing RPM limit. That's telling you the RPMs are going up and the pressure's not coming up with it cause there's no more water.

Cause it's running away from it. So anytime you see flashing RPM limit, that's just telling you, you know, your water, your pressure, not coming up with the RPMs. Then it's gonna say low water, then no water and go to ILE engine. Here's the biggest difference between an FRC and a class one, which is what you have on that R fire out there.

If you, this one goes to idle due to cavitation. If I reintroduce water within a minute or so, it will go back to its last set of. That's not the case on all pressure s on on a class one pressure governor. When it sends your engine out will due to capitation, it kick you out of your mode. So even when you get water back, you yourself have to established the pressure yourself.

Same holds true with old FRCs. If it sends you engine out will due the capitation. We'll keep you outta your mouth. The way you know which one will go back to his last set of pressure, which one along without cavitating upon. And I'm gonna cavitate your pump. I'm gonna go out there today just momentarily to show you how, what happens.

But, uh, the way I know. Whether, regardless whether it defrosts, pressure mode, or I had to choose pressure mode every time I go to pump. If you hit that idle button and it goes out of its mode, then if it sends your engine to idle due to capitation, it's going to kick you out of your mode. If I hit the idle button and it stays in the mode, then it'll go back to this last set of pressure.

Now, while all that being said, if you, when you draft, we draft an RPM mold, we're basically Calvin taping our pump, trying to establish a draft. I have no. We're using hard section to try to lift the water out or whatever the source is using the priority to lift, right? If my pump is running without water in any pressure mode, what's happening?

It's detected capitation. It keeps sending your engine to ILE and it'll keep going. The ILE in RPM mode, it doesn't matter if you have water or not, it's gonna run the engine RPMs with your, your pump running until you, if I run outta water in RPM mode, it's just gonna keep going until. Break some. Right?

Alright.